2013 Guatemala Trip Day Six - Tikal

Out of all of the sites I saw in Guatemala, by far the one that was most memorable was the trip to Tikal.  The morning was off to an interesting start when I was led past one airplane and toward the smallest commercial plane I’d ever seen.  The seats on it looked like something off a US school bus and nothing about it screamed safety, so I was really happy to have an engaging Spanish-speaking passenger sharing my “bench” as keeping up with a Spanish-language conversation kept my mind occupied.

The tour bus picked people up from a hotel near the park, which provided gorgeous views of a lake and then we were off to the ruins!  The bus was largely Spanish-speaking, so the guide provided a lot of information in Spanish.  Most of it was repeated in English, but understanding a lot of Spanish was helpful.  Once we reached Tikal, the English-speaking group separated off, which was nice as there were only 6 of us.  During our walk through the jungle, we heard animals, but I only caught a quick glimpse of a monkey.  We did see plenty of leafcutter ants, which are fascinating as they’re the only animal that grows their own food besides humans.

We were able to climb one of the uncovered ruins, but we also saw some of the mounds covering ruins that haven’t been excavated yet – hard to believe they were ALL covered at first.

(Covered)

(Uncovered)













It was fascinating to see all of the different structures that were built.  This central area wasn’t where farmers would have lived, but more likely where the administrators and wealthy individuals would have been.  There were buildings that people would have lived in, including niches where people slept near windows for cool, fresh air.

We were also able to see how the Mayans had built layer over layer over layer in the construction of their buildings.  And then we saw one of the main temple buildings in the distance.  I will note that this was about the time that the heat led to me taking my jacket off, which was when the mosquitoes REALLY decended despite 100% DEET.  My experience with that in a malarial area was enough to convince me that anti-malarials really are a good idea no matter how many precautions I plan to take.  It's such a serious disease that it simply isn't worth the risk if mosquitoes love you (they LOVE me)!

One of the largest ruins has a separate set of stairs so you can climb switchbacks to the top, but this is not an adventure for the faint of heart or those in poor health!  It was extremely humid and warm, even on an overcast day, and very strenuous; however, if you can manage it, the view was incredible.  The Mayans had built this structure above the jungle canopy!  And from the top, which was on the small side for the number of people up there (especially if you have any fear of heights, which I do!) you could see the temples facing each other at the ceremonial center in the distance.

Toward the end of our tour, we came upon the ceremonial center - yes, you WALK that far.  As luck would have it, we were there on a day when modern Mayans were performing a ceremony.  It was a fascinating place to look around and try to picture what it would have looked like at its peak.  Many of the structures were still standing and one of the main temples was being restored at the time; however, they were in surprisingly good condition given how old they are.  

It was really an amazing glimpse into the life style, from ball courts to remaining irrigation structures.  Tikal is rare for an ancient city because it was not built near a source of fresh water, but rather the Mayans built an elaborate system to capture and store rain water instead.

If you’re ever in Guatemala, it’s well worth the expense to take a trip to Tikal!

"But they don't look like 'poor kids!'" And a few other side notes on Guatemala and sponsoring . . .

When it was first suggested that I combine a visit with all 3 kids in Guatemala City, I wasn't sure how it would go, so I was happy it went great!  I hadn't previously told my kids that I sponsored other kids.  I actually still haven't mentioned ALL the kids I sponsor because I want each of the kids to feel special to me . . . and I'm not sure how to bring up, "so, there are actually NINE of you in total" because I really try not to emphasize the perception of "rich American" since I'm far from rich for the US.  Sending $28/month to sponsor a child really isn't a financial hardship for me, but there's no good way to explain that to kids where the family income is $131-326 USD per month.

While I'd assumed, probably like most Americans, that the money went further in Guatemala with the cost of living, I was surprised by how expensive many things actually were.  A full outfit (shirt, sweater, pants & shoes) cost between $50-$100 per child - it cost me ~$300 to buy outfits for 4 kids.  Clothes were cheaper in Guate than the US, but an outfit for one kid could easily cost a full month's income for these families!  I admit I was stunned when I saw prices for simple things like cold medicine, bottled water (tap water isn't safe to drink) and even simple groceries at a local small market.  While most things were less expensive than at home, the cost difference wasn't nearly as big as I'd expected, which really highlighted for me how remarkable it is that the families do as much for their kids as they do.

As an interesting side note, one of my friends mentioned that my kids weren't dressed like "poor kids" with the implication that they perhaps weren't really in need of help.  Having seen the conditions most of my kids live in, I'd say the clothes are misleading.  The children treat sponsor visits like a special holiday and wear their best.  They also receive clothing from the program and I send "special needs gifts" to provide additional clothing, food and educational assistance for my kids, so I'm happy to see that they're taking good care of the clothing!  I also feel if my kids look like "poor kids" that will only increase the discrimination they already face coming from their neighborhoods, so I'm happy my kids take pride in a neat appearance.  I believe it will be easier for them to find jobs and be successful in the future if they look the part.

2013 Guatemala Trip Day Five - Last Child Visit, a "walk" and mosquitoes!

So far in my trip, I'd managed to avoid getting bitten by any mosquitoes.  While malaria isn't present in Guatemala City, they do have dengue fever, which I was surprised to learn is spread by daytime biting mosquitoes.  I didn't have any particular issues with getting bitten, even though I usually get eaten alive; however, on the fifth day I went to an amusement park where there was standing water and I did get bitten during the day.  Fortunately, I didn't get dengue fever!

The day started with me meeting my kids at their community center.  I couldn't visit the homes of these three because they live in a "red zone" in Guatemala.  In the red zones, the gangs are so strong and well-armed that the police don't even go in and Children International relies in part on resident volunteer parents to help communicate with the families.  The first two pictures are with the siblings I sponsor, Edy and Katherine, who have matching fantastic smiles!  I also met Keisy on the same visit since they all lived in the same area.

Since they were all teens, the staff had recommended a day at the amusement park Mundo Petapa Irtra, so we were off!  The kids had never been to an amusement park before, so they wanted to start with something tame - bouncing kangeroos.

Then, it was on to the log ride - the kids wanted to take turns riding with me, so it was Edy and Katherine's turn:

Fortunately, the two families seemed to like each other!  You can see where the siblings get their smile as their mom has one to match.  I love it that their mom wears traditional Mayan clothing also!

While my teens all seemed more comfortable with a virtual stranger showing up to see them, there were differences.  Edy & Katherine were both rather shy, but they smiled a lot and showed a lot of interest in what I was saying . . . they just didn't talk much themselves.  I noticed that the staff seemed concerned that I'd be put off by the kids not talking and were pushing them a little and reminding them I'd come a LONG way to see them (helps to speak some Spanish & know what they're saying lol), so I reassured them that I understood and I wasn't offended at all.  I hope that the concern hasn't been triggered by past sponsors who WERE offended, but I know some sponsors visit and post that they didn't feel a connection to the kid(s).  I suspect there have been sponsors who visited and ended up not continuing with a sponsorship, which is a sad thought . . . and it bothered me a little - not that the staff were concerned, but that they felt there was anything to be concerned about.  Having been a shy child myself, I can only imagine the pressure to be "likeable" so your sponsor stays your sponsor!  Keisy, on the other hand, was peppering me with questions so fast that I couldn't keep up with her.  She wanted to know everything about how we celebrate Christmas, what we normally eat, did I drive a car, what are houses like in the US, etc.

One thing I noticed WAS consistent is that all of the kids wanted American food.  Out in the rural areas, there wasn't fast food, but the kids wanted hamburgers still, while I ordered a native dish.  Juan wanted pizza and my kids today were DYING for some McDonalds.  The staff does a great job of trying to keep things simple by having everyone order the same thing (since we were a HUGE group), but it was funny that when I tried to order from a different place to get something local, they were going to have everyone eat there . . . so I had McDonalds also.

Despite eating fruit, coffee cake and coffee at the homes of my kids, the only day I was sick after eating was within hours of eating at McDonalds - boo.  Of course, hard to say exactly where I picked up a bug at, but I did find it ironic.  Having said that, it was just an upset stomach, so I avoided any major issues during my whole trip.  I did have to soak my toothbrush in iodine water after accidentally rinsing it in the sink though!

More great pics of the families from the end of the day:

I also had my only "unsafe" feeling moment after returning to my bed & breakfast.  The B&B staff suggested it was safe enough to walk to a small market a few blocks away.  I felt fine the first couple of blocks, but was waiting for a break in traffic to cross, when I heard four "rough" looking guys talking about the gringa across the street.  Fortunately, I understand enough Spanish to realize that if I didn't want to lose my possessions, I should come up with a plan quickly.  I was in front of stores, so I went inside one to browse until the men left.  I went promptly back to my B&B and decided that walking around alone, even a short distance, wasn't a good idea in Guatemala City.

2013 Guatemala Trip Day Four - First Teen Visit

I wouldn't have thought it possible, but Juan's family was even MORE affectionate.  When I arrived, the family had purchased a small gift of three handmade cloth napkins and had lovely sign that Juan had made for me.

We first went to enjoy our activity at Finca La Loma, which I would highly recommend for kids from Chimaltenango!  There is a little museum of antiques from the original owner of the farm (current owner's abuelita or grandmother) that everyone enjoyed seeing.  For all 6 of us to go in the museum and for Juan and I to ride both bikes and horses, along with parking, was about $25.  Having ridden only once before when I was 7, I made a rather undignified mount of the horse, which the kind CI people captured on film; however, I count it as a success that I managed not to fall off the other side!  Juan managed much more smoothly despite it being his first time and we were off for a fun ride!

We rode the bikes after until Juan got cold (in 72 degree weather with a puffy coat ).  We then headed to the mall to do a little shopping.  When Juan found out he could buy more than just one pair of roughly $10 jeans, he promptly told me that me visiting was the best gift of all and he was thankful for my kindness and asked if he could give me another hug.  This was NOT the traditional hug (half hug w/ kiss on cheek) - it was a full-on bear hug.  We left shortly after with a couple pairs of jeans, shirt, sweater, socks, small toys for the bonus kids (niece & nephew) and a pair of high quality dress shoes for Juan's job hunt and went into the food court, where I expected fried chicken, but instead Juan wanted pizza.  I didn't have the heart to tell him I'm allergic to dairy, so I ate two small slices and hoped for the best.  Normally, having butter on something and not realizing it will make me sick, but the patron saint of sponsors must have protected me because I was fine 

 After the pizza, we were off to visit Juan's home where nearly every member of his extended family had come also (they all live very close together).  Their home was the largest I saw while there, but the entire family lived in one "compound" that was gated closed.  Inside was a front area, a kitchen/dining room and then 3 bedrooms for a grandma, parents, Juan, his brother, sister and her family.  First, we saw their chicken and bunny pets.  I had been forewarned by Juan that I had a major fan in little Damaris (7 years old) who had been asking Juan repeatedly when I was coming.  So, after seeing the pets, I was properly prepared to offer her a doll and glow-in-the-dark bracelet (you can get 5 for $1 at Dollar Tree and ALL of the kids loved them).  I also had small toy cars and a bracelet for his nephew, Javier.

I was again surprised when the family offered me carrot cake and coffee.  The families are so generous despite having relatively little themselves.  After eating our delicious snack, cooked by sister Karen, it was time for a group photo.  Even though I met Osvin, Juan's older brother, he managed to vanish when photos started.  I was really happy I picked up some last minute toys for the kids because they refused to let go of them, which was really cute!

Photo with mom Ana, grandma, sister Karen, me, Juan and niece Damaris & Nephew Javiar.

Sadly, it was then time to leave . . . but not before Juan said his speech about how he never expected to see his sponsor or even receive letters (he had one prior long-time sponsor who never wrote) and he was so happy and blessed I came, ending with him saying he wished I never had to leave (so cute).  I say "speech" because sweet Ana (mom) was reminding him of what to say next when he paused occasionally -it was super cute.  Below - me with my "I am super embarrassed right now" face.  Note: adorable Javier photo bomb!  I'm hoping when Juan graduates in 2015 that I might be able to add little Javier to my sponsorship family & keep this lovely family part of my "family!"

Sadly, it was then time to go!  At the van, the family all gave me very enthusiastic hugs, which was a fantastic way to end the day. 

It's interesting that younger kids find it easier to get sponsored because it is easier in my experience to have a rich relationship with the teens, at least in Guatemala.  I've found it much easier to connect with my kids once they were at least old enough to write their own letters.  Of course, there are upsides to sponsoring kids from the earliest possible age too!  I'm hoping to keep a mix of ages and both genders going forward since there are unique things to enjoy with all of the groups.

2013 Guatemala Trip Day Three - First Child Visit

I'm not sure anything could have prepared me for my first child visit - I was easily as nervous as the family was!  We met at the center and the kids had made artwork for me, which was really touching.  I hadn't been quite sure what to expect, but both brothers I sponsor were there with BOTH their parents, which is uncommon as the fathers are often unable to get time away from work.

It's kind of funny that the guidelines for sponsor visits mention letting the children initiate contact because the staff and parents both heavily urge the kids to hug you, while I tried to indicate I was fine with them waiting until they were comfortable.  It didn't occur to me until seeing the parents appear nervous about their children's behavior that there could be some fear that the sponsor would come and not connect with the kids or be disappointed, thereby impacting the sponsorship.  Of course, Children International does not remove kids who lose a sponsor, but it simply hadn't occurred to me before to consider that the parents would be nervous about what kind of impression they'd make on the sponsor . . . I'd been more worried about whether the kids would like me or if I'd be like that strange distant relative who comes to visit that your parents force you to hug and will never stop pinching your cheek (disclaimer: I pinched no cheeks).

Of course, there were cultural differences as I had no idea men commonly greeted women with a one-armed hug and a kiss on the cheek . . . so my two-armed hug surprised the father and the kiss surprised me.  The parents had a young child who was with them, but the sister had stayed home.  Here's the original group photo with Jose having moved as closely to me as possible at the urging of the adults :-)

I'm glad I am going back to visit this family again as they were on the short-end of the stick a bit with it being my first visit and not really having anyway to truly prepare for such an experience.  I'm also a bit of an introvert, so being the center of everyone's attention, from kids and parents staring in the center to the whole family (grandparents, aunts, uncles, etc.) showing up to see me, it was a little overwhelming the first day.

After leaving the center, our day was supposed to start at a place with animals that offered horse rides . . . unfortunately, the horses were having some issues with being temperamental, so that idea was off the table.  The kids LOVED seeing the animals and having their picture taken by this horse, who kept sniffing them.

While I was really glad the kids were enjoying themselves and that the smallest brother, Selvin, kept saying, "Mira Mama, Mira" (Look Mama, Look), the condition some of the animals were in was unlike anything I'd ever seen before in the States . . . especially not at a public facility.  It was absolutely heart-breaking and, combined with all of the dogs that run the streets fending for themselves and are frequently seen on the side of the road dead, it was a harsh reminder that protection of animals falls far down the list in a country where even 43% of children under 5 go without adequate nutrition.

When the horse rides didn't work out, it was still too early to eat lunch, so I suggested we visit the family home and pick up their sister before finding somewhere we could eat.  So, we ventured back to the family home.  I'd fortunately seen photos of some of children's homes, so I wasn't completely unprepared for the house that was smaller than my living room, but what I was unprepared for was the heat.  It was hotter already since we were out of the mountains, but the temperature inside the home was sweltering.  Fortunately, the family suggested we go out back onto a "patio" of sorts . . . but only after first showing me that they'd taken photos I sent and blew them up to 8'x10' pictures to hang on the wall where the 4 children slept . . . being an introvert, the "shrine" to me was a little disconcerting and something I hadn't at all been prepared for.  I'd heard the kids often kept pictures and letters from sponsors, but I really hope those photos were only up for my visit!

Out on the patio, I gave the family gifts that I had brought for them and learned one of the other cardinal rules of sponsor home visits - other family will show up!  While I'd expected the other siblings, I hadn't expected to meet a grandmother, aunt and two little cousins . . . I felt terrible that I had no extra small gifts that I could share with the cousins; however, that oversight led to one of the best stories of the day later.  Below is a picture with the whole family, including one cousin.  It was interesting to see that the children in the family (of which 3 are sponsored) were all dressed well & clean, whereas the cousins were in old, stained clothing and quite dirty.  Of course, the families do dress well for the visits, but the staff also told me that the program teaches the families about the importance of good hygiene for good health.  I admit that I badly wanted to sponsor the little cousin, but I was fully at my limit before the visit!

It was also interesting to see what the family had done with the retaining wall I helped have built (along with other sponsors).  The home had been in danger of sliding down the hillside, but now was secure with a small kitchen area on a patio off the back.  They were using an "open fire," but it was within a bricked area and had a chimney of sorts . . . not as bad as what I pictured by "open fire."

There were a lot of great pictures of the family, but I particularly love this one - proof that kids the world over are similar in some ways and what kid doesn't love bubbles?

I was glad that I went ahead and was vaccinated for HepA and typhoid because the family offered me jocotes and grapes.  While I didn't eat the grapes, the jocotes had a bit of a hard peel that could be pulled off; however, they were soft and juicy enough that I'm not entirely certain eating them was the safest thing I did while in Guatemala.  Jocotes are small, with a little fruit around a hard solid nut with a taste and texture that reminded me of mangoes.  Fortunately, I ate two of them with no complications later . . . in fact, the only thing I ate in Guatemala where I got ill shortly after was from McDonald's.

As for the best story of the day, when we were headed back from eating, I had the staff stop so I could buy a soccer ball for the kids.  When we returned to the home, the boys had the staff ask me if it was ok if they gave the soccer ball to their cousin so he'd feel included.  I, of course, didn't mind and was so touched by these children who have relatively little being so willing to share what they did have.  Family is viewed as so important in Guatemala, with extended family often living together or next door to each other.

After a long hot day in the lowlands of Guatemala, we returned back to the city.  While I did enjoy the B&B (Dai Nonni) I stayed in and especially liked it that I was in the private garden room out back, the fact that it was largely considered unsafe for me to walk around alone (or go anywhere alone at night) really limited what I could do in the evenings once I returned from tours or visits.  By the third day of my trip, being stuck with only TV and my tablet for entertainment and with no air conditioning, I was rethinking my choice not to stay in a larger hotel.  On the plus side though, I loved the included breakfast every morning with coffee, a roll, refried black beans and fried plantains.  There were other items available that I couldn't eat due to allergies (eggs & OJ) and by my third morning there, the staff didn't even have to ask what I wanted.  The small plate dinners were also inexpensive and the vegetarian tamales in particular were delicious - so delicious that I ate them virtually every night I was there!

2013 Guatemala Trip Day Two - Antigua

Unlike many tourists to Guatemala, I did not stay in Antigua, so my tour there was the first time I saw the colonial city.  While Guatemalan Adventures did accomodate me as a single traveler and gave me all English-speaking guides, on this particular day the rest of the tour was Spanish-speaking.  Fortunately I speak quite a bit of Spanish, so instead of having the tour guide repeat everything, I just had him clarify when I didn't understand.  Focusing on translating what was said meant I missed some photo ops though . . . like the apparently famous arch in town!

Typical colorful Antigua buildings with the Cerro de la Cruz in the background:

One of my favorite stories in the city was about this fountain that was put in, but was so shocking that the native people hid their eyes when they passed it!  

Antigua was a fascinating city with a mix of buildings still in use and many ruins from the numerous earthquakes that destroyed parts of the city.  In fact, Antigua was the third capital before Guatemala City, but most of the city was destroyed by earthquakes in 1773.  While there were famous sites, like "La Merced" in good condition . . . 

there were many that were still in ruins.  The ruins of Convento Santa Clara was one of my favorites - the purple flowers growing in the ruins around the fountain was very peaceful and the contrast of the new growing out of the old was symbolic to me.  There were virtually no other people here outside of our group, which added to the tranquil feeling.

The Cathedral de Santiago was also fascinating.  There is an area in good repair that is still in use, which is attached to sprawling ruins that were part of the original cathedral built in 1543!  While I didn't feel comfortable taking my DSLR with me to Guatemala, the ruins here made me wish I had - my old camera didn't really do them justice.

What a view!

 The eye in the sky!

The plants here are HUGE!

The rest of the day was spent seeing the Ciudad Vieja (literally, "old city") and another local market.  A few highlights:

It's very common here to see barbwire along the tops of homes, the top of gates, etc - in case you needed any reminders that the country isn't the safest place in the world.  Having said that, I again felt very safe on my tour.  At one point we were free to walk around a handicrafts market and I left to walk to a small market for an item I needed without feeling in any danger at all.  You do need to watch out for cars though - the cars do not yield to pedestrians.

Yellow is popular cathedral color - the cathedral in Ciudad Vieja.  I liked how the fountain, cross & church lined up visually.

I absolutely LOVE the beautiful, bright colors of the local Mayan clothing!